Firstly i would like to start off with how i run things as it will give you a little insight, so first of all i need to know all about you and your family, where you live and that you have a suitable garden. Plus i need to know your work status and the hours you do as any dog should not be left for long periods of time as cavapoo’s need company and can suffer from seperation aniexty, also i do not allow families who have any allergies due to the possiblity of the dog being returned to me which is clearly stated in my contract so it is very important as i have encountered this once and never again.
I used to take lists mths in advance but now feel its pointless due to the fact families do not let me know if they want off the list so i now ask people to look on the litters due page and see if and when my next litter is coming up and then when i know more about when the puppies are due so i will be doing list at very last minute or mth or so before puppies born.
Next i then ask families to come and view the puppies and mum plus my other furkids too at 4 wks and i then go through all paperwork regarding copies of health testing ie DNA for mum and dad, eye specialist and cardiologist,and answer any questions you may have regarding the tests carried out and there meanings. plus i will show you copies of mum and dads pedigrees too, then if you decide to go ahead with choosing a puppy with me then i do ask a deposit of £300 with a written receipt. i allow you to spend as long as you like in my home as i book a whole morning or afternoon for each family so no hurry, you can take photos of puppies and mum or with your family members and you can bring along whoever you wish all welcome :).
Then when you have chosen your puppy i then allow families to come as many times as you wish til 8 weeks when you collect your new addition, this enables you and your family to bond with the puppy and take pictures on a weekly basis building up a portfolio of your furbaby, but if you are unable to come between 4 wks and 8wks then i do the portfolio for you as i then send you pictures of your puppy up close for you to keep, and any other pictures of the puppies together and mum etc then never a problem and would be more than happy to, and inbetween those 4 wks i’m here for any questions that you may have whether it wanting help with the shopping list for your new addition or which food is best and it doesn’t matter what it is i’m more than happy to help with the exciting time of having a puppy and i’m here at every step.
At 8 weeks the puppies will be due to leave me and go to there new families and on the day of collecting your puppy i will go through a folder of info i have gathered together myself to which you will find useful, plus it will have a sheet explaining all of my routine with the puppies down to worming and food routine plus my contact details to which your to feel free to use 24/7 day or night as i have both phones with me. included in the pack is a front cover with mum and dads picture on and d.o.b pups were born, your vaccination card along with a health certificate signed by my vet, plus mum and dads pedigrees, then i will issue you 4 weeks free petplan insurance, all copies of health testing carried out to which you have seen at the 4 week viewing, i do also ask you to sign a puppy contract to safeguard both u and i, lastly i collect remaining balance in cash as i cannot cash cheques on the day and a receipt will be given. also you leave with a full bag of puppy food that they have been on, a toy, puppy pads, blanket with mum and pups scent on as this gives your puppy a secure feeling when in a new enviroment and i suggest he/she sleeps with the blanket always at the beginning. when you get home i am always at the end of the phone so never ever hesitate to contact me even if it’s the middle of the night i don’t mind at all if it is, just happy to help.
lastly all i ask is that you keep in contact and send me regular pictures of him/her growing up into a cute teddy bear, as i miss them all dearly.
Shopping list guide for your puppy
1 – I suggest a medium size crate for a cavapoo as this gives enough space for freedom of movement, a bed – plastic ideally as puppies chew and we don’t want a tummy full of bed filling.
2 – large blanket for covering part of the crate.
3 – in my opinion a harness is best as I’m sure you wouldn’t like being pulled by the neck.
4 – plenty of warm fleece blankets as this gives a feeling of mummy.
5 – a retractable lead is suitable so it gives you the option of training the puppy from when its first allowed out after the last lot of injections and I personally don’t let my girls off the lead due to not trusting other dogs and there owners. So they have the retractable long lead option.
6 – a pen which is put around the crate, this is for when you first take your puppy home as he/she is used to this set up by me and will make the transition from me to you easier. This is not a long term option as the puppy will grow out of this stage when its ready as every puppy is different.
7 – u need to invest in a good grooming brush for a cavapoo as regular brushing is required as they can be prone a knot or two if you decide to keep the long shaggy teddy bear look.
8 – Toys! Yes lots on the market nowadays be very vigilant on what you buy as I know you may want buy pink or blue and everything cute but puppies chew and chew so therefore super tough makes are the best and I love the kong make which do chew bones and hard wearing toys. Always supervise a puppy/dog when given toys and chew bones. If toys start to perish then throw away immediately and replace with new.
9 – Bath Time! Again lots of products on the market and can be very confusing on what’s best. I suggest a perfume free with natural ingredients where possible as puppy’s skin is delicate but I’ve always used a puppy shampoo on my adult girls. Only give them a wash if necessary as we don’t want to be washing away the natural oils of the skin and in turn could cause irritation.
10 – Travelling in the car! A crate to fit your open boot area or a dog car seat where they are strapped in as all dogs by law need to restrained accordingly whilst a car is moving for safety of the driver and the public. I use a crate for mine and no collar policy whilst in crates unsupervised.
11 – First Aid kit a doggy one though as you never know when your need one and good idea to have one in the car. It’s a good idea to know the basic canine first aid so invest in a good book.
12 – Food bowls! So many to choose from these days and stainless steel are the best as they go in the dishwasher and don’t chip or break which can be dangerous and plastic ones like to be chewed and if you have a hoover of an eater then you can get the slow feeder bowl which looks like a maze lol but works.